CHAPTER 148

Original (published in Evergreen News): 2012-11-16

Rewritten: 2026-04-23

Our family of three once visited Prince Edward Island in eastern Canada. It is the smallest of the country’s ten provinces, accounting for only one-thousandth of Canada’s land area, yet it is also the birthplace of the nation.

We spent three days and three nights on the island. On the morning of the fourth day, we returned to Halifax, the capital of Nova Scotia. That was in the summer of 2011.

If I were to sum up the whole trip in a single word, it would be “one”: one field, one house, one tree, one car—and very often, not a single person in sight.

Each patch of farmland stands on its own, and the entire island feels like one vast garden. The scenery is superb: surrounded by sea on all sides, blue above and green below, with a layer of red soil laid between the grassy plains and the deep blue ocean.

There are no high mountains on the island—the highest point is only 142 meters. In summer, the southwest wind blows across endless farmland and dense forests. The greenery is deep and lush. The main crops are potatoes and soybeans, all low-growing plants. Tall, orderly rows of trees stretch vertically and horizontally between the fields and along the roads.

Driving along the coastal highway that circles the island, one constantly catches sight of the sea and waves rolling onto the red-sand beaches. We chose to rent a car from Halifax and travel 170 kilometers northward, taking a ferry from New Glasgow. After more than an hour, we arrived at Wood Island.

Standing at the front deck of the ferry and gazing toward Prince Edward Island across the sea, I imagined myself transported back over two hundred years to the days when European settlers braved the waves to reach this land. Times have changed, yet the salty sea breeze brushing against one’s face must feel much the same as it did then—though today’s voyage is certainly far safer and more comfortable.

From the ferry terminal, it is about an hour’s drive northeast to the provincial capital, Charlottetown. Its character resembles a miniature coastal version of San Francisco, while Halifax feels like a mid-sized version.

We walked briskly and covered the waterfront tourist area around Water Street in just twenty minutes or so. Those in a hurry might find the visit underwhelming.

To truly appreciate a small town, one needs leisure and a slow pace. Strolling through Charlottetown and visiting the colonial governor’s residence—where the founding fathers of Canada once gathered and decided to establish the Canadian Confederation—is a meaningful experience. The compact city center naturally features seafood restaurants, while on the outskirts we found a Chinese buffet that was quite decent. Beyond the quaint, old-fashioned houses, heading north leads to the university.

Passing through a small coastal town with a population of just six hundred, we visited a museum after lunch. There wasn’t a single other visitor inside. The lone summer guide warmly welcomed our family of three, and was even more delighted to learn that we had come all the way from the far west—his enthusiasm quickly matched our own.

The second-largest city is Summerside, located 71 kilometers west-northwest of the capital, facing southwest toward the sea. On the day we visited, a strong southwest wind was blowing, making it almost impossible to walk. The trees along the shore all leaned to one side, and the branches facing the wind were stripped bare.

At the central northern tip of the island lies a major attraction: Green Gables Heritage Place, made famous by the 1908 novel Anne of Green Gables. The author, Lucy Maud Montgomery, grew up here, and the book became popular worldwide. Even Catherine, Princess of Wales has visited out of admiration.

At the easternmost tip stands the East Point Lighthouse. Not long after arriving, we were driven back into the car by the strong east wind. One advantage of visiting Prince Edward Island is its small size and well-developed road network: from any point, you can return to the capital within an hour and a half.

On the return journey, we crossed the Confederation Bridge. In just ten minutes, we reached New Brunswick. Driving across the bridge felt like racing over the sea, giving a sense of immersion in Canada’s vast skies and oceans. Our next stop was a revisit to Old Quebec City, though that night we were again driven back to our hotel by strong winds.