CHAPTER 159

Original: 2016-01-02

Rewritten: 2026-06-02

Kyoto is elegant and immaculate, and its people are gentle and reserved—like a cube of fine tofu resting in a bowl of clear broth.

History is everywhere in Kyoto. Every major street and narrow lane seems to contain a place of interest. As country pumpkins, we would choose two nearby attractions each day. After breakfast, we would take a taxi to the farther destination, usually costing a little over twenty Canadian dollars. After enjoying the first site, we would proceed to the second.

The rest of the day was spent gradually making our way back toward the hotel, sightseeing along the route. Whenever we felt tired, we would stop to rest, eat, or drink. Eventually, we would take another taxi back to the hotel, usually at an even lower fare.

Besides visiting the Imperial Gardens, one must also visit the historic Kiyomizu-dera Temple. Located southeast of the Kamo River, it was originally founded in 778 AD, while the present structures were rebuilt in 1633. Throughout Japanese history, virtually every notable figure has visited this temple.

Apart from the Kamo River, Kyoto is also famous for its abundant underground water supply. This never-ending source of water was of immense importance to the residents of Japan's former capital. Besides admiring the temple halls painted in brilliant vermilion, visitors should not miss the famous Kiyomizu Stage. Facing westward, the stage offers a panoramic view of Kyoto. Built against the mountainside, it is supported entirely by a complex wooden framework, precise, orderly, and remarkably sturdy.

Below the stage lies a wishing area where three streams of water flow continuously. Visitors use long bamboo ladles to scoop and drink the water while making sincere wishes. My wife and I followed the custom by drinking the water, though we made no wishes.

Before Emperor Meiji restored imperial rule, Japan had been governed for more than seven centuries by three successive shogunates. The first was the Kamakura Shogunate, led by Minamoto no Yoritomo, who possessed imperial blood. The second was the Muromachi Shogunate, and the last was the Tokugawa Shogunate. From Edo (present-day Tokyo), the Tokugawa rulers exercised control over their administrative center in Kyoto, which was Nijo Castle.

Tokugawa Ieyasu had once served under Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the brilliant leader of peasant origin who unified Japan. Hideyoshi assigned Tokugawa to the remote marshlands of Edo, a place that would later become Tokyo.

Nijo Castle stands in the north-central part of Kyoto, directly west of the Imperial Gardens. South of the castle, the city is divided into eastern and western sections, modeled after the layout of the ancient Chinese capital Luoyang and protected by moats. Its architectural design appears even more imposing than that of the Imperial Gardens. It also confirms one of my observations: the more refined and noble something is, the more understated and elegant its decoration tends to be.

Ordinary people, of course, have their own favorite destinations, and Nishiki Market is certainly worth a visit. In reality, it is a combination shopping street, food street, and ladies' market. Located south of the Imperial Gardens, between Sanjo and Shijo, it exemplifies the superbly designed covered shopping streets found in Japan's major cities.

These shopping arcades often run parallel to the main thoroughfares. The pattern is similar in city after city. Large corporations occupy buildings along the major roads, where most pedestrians are office workers. Retail shops, meanwhile, are concentrated on inner streets closed to vehicle traffic, creating pleasant spaces for strolling and shopping. Transparent canopies stretch overhead, shielding visitors from rain and wind while allowing sunlight through. The covered walkways often seem endless.

Nishiki Market consists of two parallel inner streets and functions as an all-weather shopping district. Because Kyoto is an ancient city with narrow streets, it is especially suited to this type of transformation. For avid shoppers, it is paradise—though compared with the shopping paradise of Osaka, it is still a smaller wonder.

The most impressive were the human loudspeakers standing in front of the shops. Most were young women or men who continuously called out to attract customers in voices that were sharp, bright, and energetic. They showed no sign of fatigue, their voices never turned hoarse, and their smiles never faded. Their professionalism was truly remarkable.

One visits an ancient capital not only to see history but also to search for traces of Luoyang, the ancient capital of China. Kyoto is orderly and spotless; not a single cigarette butt can be found on the ground. Kyoto's people are courteous, quiet, and somewhat reserved.

They are like that neat little cube of tofu, sitting quietly in a small bowl of clear water.