CHAPTER 169

2026-09-04

After my wife passed away, I lost my lifelong companion. The rhythm and content of my daily life are now entirely arranged by myself. At present, one of the most relaxing things I can do is go to the beaches in Vancouver to clear my mind.

Whenever I return to Vancouver from elsewhere, if I do not have to pass through that desolate area at the eastern end of Vancouver, I always feel that this place is truly a paradise on earth—beautiful mountains and clear waters, with a touch of spiritual energy.

My most enjoyable activity nowadays is to drive from my home in Port Coquitlam to the waterfront to enjoy the scenery, take a walk, take photographs, sit around and relax, and eat some food I have brought with me. Before or afterward, I may also visit a familiar Hong Kong-style café nearby, have a meal, meet some acquaintances, and exchange a few words.

Let me first take a brief look at the places themselves. Greater Vancouver faces the sea to the west, while rivers and lakes are scattered toward the east. Beaches by the sea, along rivers, and beside lakes each have their own distinct character. On the western side of Vancouver Island, towering rocky shores are battered by waves that carve cliffs and caves. Besides being thrilling and dramatic, the scenery can seem almost otherworldly.

Among the places most frequently visited by people, myself included, the first choices are the beaches at the northwestern end of Vancouver and those at the northern and southern ends of the downtown peninsula's commercial district.

The main reason is that the sand is fine, the beaches are broad and shallow, and the mountains and sea seem to merge into one continuous stretch of blue. The views are wide open. Looking east, one can see the continuous signs of human activity, yet while standing there, I can imagine myself to be a tourist. Commercial buildings and residential houses climb gently up the slopes, while as the evening approaches, the glow of the sunset gradually gives way to lights. The scenery becomes wonderfully rich and varied.

Spring and summer bring gentle winds and bright sunshine; autumn and winter bring strong winds and a vast, somewhat desolate atmosphere.

The beaches at the southern ends of West Vancouver and North Vancouver are exceptionally pleasant and scenic. The trouble is the traffic. During busy commuting hours, the approaches to the two bridges crossing the water are bound to be congested, and holidays can be even worse. Unless I am heading out on a longer trip, I avoid them whenever possible.

Within a thirty- to forty-kilometre drive from home, I can enjoy an abundance of beautiful scenery. The drive takes about an hour one way. At the eastern end of False Creek, starting from Science World, the waterfront divides into two major routes, one heading northwest and the other southwest.

Following the waterfront walking paths toward the northwest, one passes the southern end of Vancouver's commercial centre and reaches English Bay. From there, one enters the city's enormous green lung, the outer perimeter of Stanley Park. After completing the roughly ten-kilometre route around the park, the walk passes beneath the Lions Gate Bridge on the North Shore, offering magnificent views of West Vancouver and parts of North Vancouver.

Heading southwest instead, a ten-kilometre walk will bring you to the University of British Columbia area. Along the way, each neighbourhood has its own distinctive character.

The first stop is the 2010 Olympic Village. Now sixteen years old, it is still attractive in appearance. Continuing west, three major vehicle bridges span the area: starting from the east is Cambie Bridge, followed by Granville Bridge, which has undergone reinforcement, and finally Burrard Bridge to the west.

Under Granville Bridge lies the Granville Island area, which has successfully transformed itself from an industrial district into a tourist destination. Its restaurants and food are delicious, and there is a wonderful variety of fresh fruits, vegetables, and other produce. My wife and I used to visit there frequently.

Pedestrians can walk onto Cambie Bridge or Burrard Bridge to enjoy the views. I often park for free for two hours beneath Cambie Bridge and take walks along both sides of False Creek.

On the south side, the walking path crosses Burrard Bridge and soon reaches the Maritime Museum, a must-visit destination for tourists during the summer. Inside is an exploration vessel that twice sailed around North America and once belonged to the Royal Canadian Mounted Police. Right next door is the dog beach.

Next comes Kitsilano Beach, the liveliest of them all. Vancouver's water is cold, so many visitors play beach volleyball or simply lie on the sand and soak up the sunshine.

Further west is Jericho Beach, where sailboats can frequently be seen heading out to sea. Regular visitors go crabbing, cyclists weave back and forth, and people enjoy picnics and daytime camping.

Farther southwest is a rocky beach, a sparsely populated area for naturists. If you are not interested in that sort of thing, simply turn around and head back.